When most people think of Athens, the first thing that comes to mind is the Acropolis. Whilst it may be the most popular tourist site, this city has much more to offer!!! We had two full days and three nights in Athens to see and do as much as we possibly could.
We arrived at the hotel around 8.30pm on the Friday night, and as soon as we checked in, we went out to explore the streets and see what Athens had to offer. But let me fill you in on our first impressions of Athens ….
Walking out Omonia Station towards our hotel, we were shocked at how run down the city was, graffiti on every surface, dodgy looking people hanging around on street corners and generally quite a lot of homeless people and beggars … we honestly couldn’t help but walk that bit faster to get to our hotel, bags held tightly!!
Once we dropped our bags at the hotel and continued down the main street, the graffiti was more noticeable. It was on every roller door covering the closed stores, street signs and basically every surface the ‘street artists’ could find. After a c.10 minute walk, we arrived at the main square, Monastiraki. We quickly realised why it was so popular, the view of course!! This square has a perfect view of the Acropolis.
The square also seemed to be where many of the locals hung around for the evening, it is quite a nice open area with access to many restaurants, cocktail bars as well as the street markets selling their goods, including tourist ornaments and hats to escape the sun, clothing etc as well as cafes and restaurants. We wandered around the streets, had a look at the massive range of restaurants on offer and also found the back-streets where the locals eat.
The markets further away from the square were all closed, but we could tell this would be popular based on the sheer number of roller doors and takeaway food vendors where you can buy Gyros and other Greek snacks. The walk here, not to our surprise, continued the general theme of it looking run down, however, at this stage we started to appreciate it a bit more and generally felt much safer. We came across a few stray dogs and cats, which seemed very friendly and the locals also seemed to leave out food and water, which was great to see given the general struggle the people seem to be in themselves.
Generally, when we run into stray animals, thewelltravelledwoman (Jenna) will give them a very creative name such as Ginger, Spot, or in the case of the little kitten below, Stripe! To be fair, Stripe was very cute and the curiosity leads Stripe straight towards us tilting its head a bit to see what we were up to (other than taking a few photos of his abandoned stairs (or home).
Following a good nights rest, we spent the following two days exploring the main sites, which we have listed below.
What to see
Changing of the Guard (10:30 am – 11:30 am)
The changing of the guard happens daily, however, only at 11 am on a Sunday morning do the guards wear traditional clothing. This is quite impressive to see! It happens outside Parliament House and would recommend getting there around 10.30am to see the two guards do their part before the rest of the guards and marching band arrive. You will be sure to get a good spot for your photographs if you’re there early!!
The Temple of Olympian Zeus (11:30 am – 12:30 am)
After you have seen the changing of the guard, you can walk through the national gardens and get to the Temple of the Olympian Zeus. There were originally 104 Corinthian columns, each 17 meters high; 48 of these stood in triple rows under the pediments and 56 in double rows at the sides. Only 15 columns remain standing today.
There is an entrance fee for this site, but you can buy a ticket booklet for €12 which gives you entry into multiple sites (including the Acropolis).
Lycabetus Hill (2:00pm – 3:30pm)
Having enjoyed a traditional Greek lunch, we walked through the city towards Lycabettus Hill, the highest point in Athens and one of the most famous hills in Athens. From the top, it gives you panoramic views over the city, including the Acropolis.
Depending on the day and your fitness levels, you have two options to reach the top. Either you catch the funicular from Ploutarchou street, or you, as we did, could zigzag your way up the hill in the blistering Greek sun. I love a good funicular, but after doing a bit of research, a few reviews mentioned the funicular still required you to walk up quite a few sets of stairs before paying €6 for a few minute return journey which actually goes through a tunnel, offering you no views of Athens until you reach the top. To be fair, you do have a 360-degree view of Athens so don’t let the tunnel put you off!
We probably didn’t pick the best time to go … we chose to go up in 35 degrees…. up a hill (yes, we’re crazy!!) but the view was worth it. When you get to the top, there is a restaurant there which sells food and drink. Instead of stopping here for some food and drinks we decided to buy some ice-cold water from one of the local guys trying to make a living. We then started the 40-minute walk (much needed after our heavy Greek lunch!) back to the hotel for a much-needed cold shower before we went out for dinner around Monastiraki Market Square.
Monastiraki Market Square (anytime, to be seen both at day and night)
As mentioned above, Monastiraki Square seems to be where it is all happening! You can buy just about anything there and the prices are fairly reasonable (compared to the rest of Europe!). The shops off the square seemed to be only open during the week so if you like to wander around and do a bit of shopping, try to plan your visit accordingly (remembering to include a Sunday for the changing of the guards!).
The Acropolis (11:00am – 12:30pm)
This would have to be the most famous site in Athens. Everyone knows about it or has at least heard about it at some point in their life. We walked through the city and markets again, along the route to the Acropolis. It was VERY hot and humid and we wished we had of gone first thing that morning!!!
If you haven’t pre-booked a guide, that’s not a problem as you can go to the guide desk and pick one up there. They appear to work together and have set prices at a total cost of €100. The tour lasts around 1 hour and usually consists of 5 people to keep the groups small and more personal (€20 per person). There were 6 of us in the group, but the price remained at €20 per person, excluding the entrance tickets. It is helpful if you have pre-bought your tickets before getting to the guide desk, but if you haven’t, the guide can quickly buy some at their fast track service for the same cost (€12) of the aforementioned ticket booklet.
Our guide was great, friendly and well informed. She pointed out all the sites we could see throughout Athens as well as the Acropolis itself. There was so much information, from the Virgin Goddess, Athena (and how Athens was given its name), to where the marble was found, why the Acropolis was built where it was built and much more that it would be an entire blog on its own, but believe me it’s well worth it!
The walk up and down from the Acropolis is the same, so we decided to stay at the top and get some more photos rather than walk back with the guide.
Acropolis Museum (12:30pm – 2:00pm)
After visiting the Acropolis itself, you have to go directly to the Acropolis Museum. It’s only around 10 minutes from the Acropolis itself and its where all the original artefacts are held. They are still in the process of slowly removing some of the important pieces from the Temples and Acropolis, with many of the pieces currently at the sites themselves being replicas (good ones!) to ensure as many of these can be preserved well into the future.
There was a bit of a line up to get through security and buy tickets (as at August 2015 the cost is €5 per person), but once you’re through we didn’t find the museum too crowded and it was quite an enjoyable experience. We also enjoyed an escape from the heat, wandering through the museum at leisure in air conditioning!!
Ancient Agora (4:15pm – 5:00pm
Having enjoyed lunch, we realised we were literally sitting opposite the Ancient Agora!
The Ancient Agora is expansive and probably the best-known example of an ancient Greek Agora and includes the Temple of Hephaestus, a Church of the Holy Apostles as well as the large Stoa with its many white pillars. Inside the Stoa, you can also find a few artefacts, including pottery and statues. There weren’t any guides offering their services as they do around the Acropolis and we wandered through the site on our own in around 30-45 minutes, if you have the time it is well worth a visit.
Where to eat and drink
Dipylo
We stopped here on our first day in Athens for lunch. Dipylo was busy and full of locals, and they even had some live traditional Greek music. Given it was our first lunch, we thought we’d order traditional Greek meals!!! I tried the Chicken Gyros and Jenna ordered the kebab. I must admit, Jenna’s dish had a lot of flavour and I did have some food envy! I’m a sucker for trying the local dishes though and will always opt for what the waiter suggests!
A is for Athens
After seeing an amazing photo on Instagram, I had to see this view for myself! On the Sunday night, we went to A is for Athens which is located on Monastiraki Square and has a rooftop bar overlooking the square and the Acropolis. We went here to watch the sunset and see the square and Acropolis lit up at night.
If you want a table on the upper deck, you MUST book this in advance. They seem to have a high turnaround, so bookings may only be for 1.5 hours each, but the views are incredible. They have a good cocktail menu as well which helps to soak up the sun! They also sell food, so you can always have a meal here too!
Antica Cafe
We simply had to stop here, as our favourite Italian restaurant in London is called L’Antica, so Antica Cafe had to be as good, right?? Well, it wasn’t as good, but it was still delicious!
The service to get you into the restaurant was really good, and usually, that is where it stops. However, the staff on this occasion were very friendly, offering advice on what is the best meal to get and what the best local beer they have on offer. The meals came out relatively quickly and were tasty. Jenna ordered spaghetti bolognese and I ordered a Greek Salad. The views were fantastic, overlooking the Acropolis and they have fans on the go trying to keep their patrons cool (during the day the fans spray out water!!).
Diavlos
We stopped at Diavlos restaurant and it seemed quite busy which is always a good sign! As always, I asked what the best dish on the menu was. Their advice was the Lamb Kleftiko, so I ordered that! For those (like me) who don’t know what Lamb Kleftiko is, it is basically a stew cooked in a ceramic dish in the oven with lamb, cheese, potato, peppers and this particular one was then served on paper. The lamb was very tender and the flavours were able to spread throughout the dish, it was lovely! Jenna had the traditional grilled chicken which was also very nice. It is in a great spot for the Ancient Agora afterwards!!
Where to stay
We stayed at the Grecotel Pallas Athena which we booked on hotels.com (also a part of the Small Luxury Hotels if you are a member). It was a little out of the hustle and bustle, but close enough to be able to walk everywhere. Upon entering the hotel, we were greeted by very friendly staff who offered to take our bags and even offered us a chocolate as part of their 40-year celebration. Check-in was quick and we then dropped our bags before we went straight back out in the city. The rooms are all decorated differently, ours had a jungle theme and some ‘graffiti’ on the walls, which we thought was good given it matched our initial impressions of the city.
The hotel 5*, however, we would probably only give the hotel 4* simply because of a few things which in our opinion let it down quite a bit!! First, the pillows weren’t up to standard compared to other hotels, the double bed was actually two singles pushed together (which isn’t unusual in 4* hotels) and the gym was basic. Whilst these are minor observations, the internet was intermittent throughout our stay and we found this very frustrating when trying to plan for the next day!
Getting to and from Athens Airport
Getting to and from the airport it relatively easy. When you arrive in Athens, follow the signs to the trains and speak with the person at the ticket counter. The ticket from the airport to the city centre is €8 per person. There is only one metro line from the airport to the city centre, and this will take you to Syntagma Square in about 40 minutes, where you can either exit and walk to your hotel, or change on to a different metro line (we changed and got off at Omonia Station).
Do you have travel insurance?
Before travelling, make sure you get a travel insurance policy – you never know when you might need it! Click here for information on travel insurance, what company we recommend and a link to get an instant quote.
Alternative accommodation
If you’re looking for alternative accommodation to either save some money or share with friends or family, click here for information on Air B&B ($50 discount on your first booking), hotel price comparison websites etc.
“The world is a book, and those who do not travel read only one page.” – Saint Augustine
Click here for a complete list of where I’ve been…
Budapest, Hungary’s capital, is split by the River Danube with the hilly Buda district on one side and the flat Pest district the other. Buda and Pest are connected by a 19th-century Chain Bridge, which leads you towards an old and rather steep funicular up Castle Hill to Buda’s Old Town, the spectacular 13th-century Matthias Church and the turrets of the Fishermen’s Bastion, which offer sweeping views over The Danube and Pest!
Budapest’s extensive World Heritage Site includes the banks of the Danube, the Buda Castle Quarter, Andrássy Avenue, Heroes’ Square and the Millennium Underground Railway, the second oldest metro line in the world! Budapest also has the world’s largest thermal water cave system, the second largest synagogue and the third largest Parliament building!
So, it is simple to see why Budapest attracts around 4.4 million tourists per year, making it the 25th most popular city in the world and the 6th in Europe (according to Euromonitor). It is no wonder we had to visit this city, or in my case, visit this city twice!
Our Story:
We went in May 2014, over a long weekend and coming out of London’s winter, excited to see some warm weather. We were not disappointed! The weather was pretty much perfect for us. We arrived late on a Friday night, jumped into a taxi and headed through the centre of the city, past some rather derelict looking buildings, a few sex shops and strip clubs wondering where we had landed. A few more minutes passed, turning onto the esplanade running along the Danube and everything changed, it was like we were in a different world, the city was beautiful and we couldn’t keep our eyes off the chain bridge and Buda Castle sitting on the left bank! The taxi pulled up to the Sofitel Budapest Chain Bridge hotel, which is where we stayed for the weekend. Being platinum members with Accor Hotels, we were lucky and were upgraded to a Junior Suite (after booking a luxury room) which was a nice added touch. It was around 1 am by the time we dropped our bags and immediately walked back outside to gaze at the chain bridge and Buda Castle, now for anyone fortunate enough to have experienced the Sofitel MyBed, you will understand just how good it felt when we put our heads on the pillows, hands down, the best bed we have ever had in a hotel!
We woke up bright and early on the Saturday morning, grabbed our maps and walked towards Váci utca, the main pedestrian thoroughfare and perhaps the most famous street of Budapest. Having opted to skip breakfast at the hotel, it didn’t take long before we stumbled upon Café Gerbeaud which looked very welcoming and decided to have breakfast. We ended up eating there both mornings – it was delicious and about half the price of the hotel’s breakfast! It is worth mentioning the dessert menu is incredible and it is worth coming back for some ice cream from the takeaway stall, or if you’re feeling tired you could always grab a seat in the restaurant.
Buda District
We started our first full day exploring the Buda District. We started by walking to Chain Bridge and walking across to the Budapest Castle Hill Funicular which in only 3 minutes takes you up to the top of the hill, where you’ll have easy walking around the old town in Buda.
I usually enjoy a bit of walking and you have the option of zig-zagging up the hill towards the castle, but the funicular is absolutely worth it, I’m not sure what exactly it is about these forms of transportation, however in every city with the option, to avoid the risk of having funicular envy, you simply have experienced it (and you have the added benefit of escaping the scorching Hungarian sun!).
Having walked around the castle, we walked towards the old town, stopping in at the Labyrinth, best known for its underground “guest” of the 15th century, King Matthias’s captive – Vlad Tepes, the famous ‘Count Dracula’ who was imprisoned here. It was an experience walking around in the underground tunnels, although you have to remember, this is a tourist attraction! You won’t find any locals and it’s filled with artificial fog as well as some themed music as you enter the room of Draculas grave!
From there, we wandered over to Matthias Church. The vivid colours of the hexagonal tiles of the church, the detail in the cloak of the statue and the curves of the pristine fisherman a bastion is simply incredible, I couldn’t imagine the expression an architect would have in the current day, let alone the cost estimate to build anything like this … to imagine the people of the 13th century with their basic tools and only manual labour is unbelievable.
The church is located in front of the Fisherman’s Bastion. It is In my opinion, this is the best spot in Budapest! The views across the Danube and the rest of Pest. We spent an hour or more taking it all in, as well as the obligatory photos.
Pest District
For those of you who have been to Europe before, the sun sets late so you have quite a bit of time to keep exploring the city. Having enjoyed a good few hours in Buda, we couldn’t wait to explore the Pest district. Walking back down the windy roads you’ll have a fantastic view of the Hungarian Parliament Building, which has an uncanny resemblance to Westminster Abbey!!
Following our quick photo stop, we continued along the Danube’s bank, which, in the blistering sun is quite a walk… Depending on the time of year I would recommend spending those Forints and consider taking the trams! The tickets are cheap and can be purchased in packs of 10, which is great because it means you can simply validate them when you choose, using them throughout your stay.
The parliament building (which has a tram stop close by!) was our first stop in Pest. This is quite a sight, but we mainly walked towards the Parliament building to see the “Shoes on the Danube”. These represent the Jews killed in Budapest during World War II. Jewish people were lined up along the bank, ordered to remove their shoes, and shot so their bodies would fall into the water where the current would drag their bodies away.
Walking through the streets of Pest you’ll find many little cafes for snacks or shops for that must buy souvenir. One of the memorable visits would have to be St Stephan’s Cathedral, which is the largest cathedral in Hungary. The inside, as with all European churches is opulent and whilst you might think it’s just another bloody church, it’s worth popping in for a some more panoramic views over pest and towards Buda.
Where to grab a drink
Budapest is known for its Ruin pubs, basically, a run down building converted into a beer garden! Having spent the majority of the day on foot, it was time for a well-deserved break and cold drink. Now, if you’re looking for somewhere to have a drink, you have to visit Szimpla Kert (Single Garden). It may look a bit run down from the outside, but that’s exactly what you would expect from a ruin pub!
Before you reach the Kert, make sure you enjoy a drink in one, or all, of the oddly themed rooms. I won’t ruin the surprise, but expect something ‘different’.
Either way, when we visited, the place had decent food, great music and an even better atmosphere! It does get quite busy late in the evening, the locals seem to only head out after 10pm, so if you’re keen to find that perfect spot in a bathtub or scrap car, make sure you start early!
Heroes Square, the City Park and Baths
If you are able to spend some time in Budapest over a weekend, in particular, a Sunday, it’s worth visiting the city (as we did) on the Saturday and then wander over through the parks on the Sunday where you’ll find the hustle and bustle of the flea markets, these were a mix of goods, both new and old, some great food stalls and some live music.
Walking from our hotel towards the park, we decided to stop in at Heroes Square, a remembrance monument of the chieftains, national leaders and the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier. In reality, this was only a quick photo stop given it was literally along our walk to the City Park. Having wandered through the flea markets and the City Park in general, you’ll be able to find the largest medicinal baths in Europe, the Szechenyi Baths and Pool.
Be ready to pay a bit for the use of the facilities, the cost increases quickly if you hire a cabin, locker or towel. Depending on what you have planned for the day you could always take your own towel. Once inside you’ll find the baths spread throughout the expansive building. Personally, I’m not a fan of baths, whilst considered medicinal, in my opinion they come across rather unhygienic and have an odd smell. These also tend to be full of either Hungarian locals or older Europeans visiting for the day, either way you’ll find anyone under 40 years of age at the outer pool. Since we were there for a long weekend and seen the major sights the day before, we were able to simply take it all in and relax for a few hours. There is something quite enjoyable, taking it all in, people watching and dipping your feet into the cold water to escape the heat.
If you’re looking for more ideas, check out The Crazy Tourist’s 25 Best Things To Do In Budapest.
Where to stay
Loyalty certainly pays off and we do tend to book with the Accor Hotels group when the hotels have good reviews, conveniently located, and reasonably priced. We always receive free welcome drinks and whilst not on every visit, we have received a number of free room upgrades or a bottle of champagne on check-in.
The first trip to Budapest was purely for leisure, as mentioned in the post above, we stayed at the Sofitel Chain Bridge. Sofitel is a 5 star luxury hotel and absolutely worth it, especially if you can book this during one of their frequent promotions with a free breakfast or a discounted rate.
The second trip to Budapest, it was predominantly for business. The MGallery Hotel Nemzeti is a 4 star boutique hotel, conveniently located for the purpose I needed, however the area is much more central and the walk to the touristy sights not necessarily that great. The trams and busses are however right outside and it’s very easy to get around town, the staff were very helpful in explaining which tram and the relevant direction of where I wanted to go. I stayed in the junior suite which was very spacious, double sinks, separate bath and shower as well as a well-appointed lounge area and desk if you wanted to do a bit of work or perhaps a some blogging. Whilst the hotel was great, I would opt for a smaller room in the Sofitel which is in a great location, plenty of restaurants and right next to the Chain Bridge.
Restaurants and night life
Other than the places mentioned in the post above, we enjoyed some Italian at Jerney Italian Bistro. It’s right on the esplanade so you’ll have some glimpses of Buda Castle, the food was delicious and the prices were reasonable. It’s Italian, so expect the food to be similar to what you would on any other Italian menu.
The best traditional dinner I had, was at Búsuló Juhász Étterem, it’s on Gellert Hill and has some great panoramic view over the suburbs and choice of dinning inside or outside. We sat on the covered terrace which had a gentle breeze keeping you cool. The dish that stands out to me was actually the local goulash, I dined there with a few locals and they suggested ordering some hot paprika, and am I glad they did! The paprika is served in a small side dish allowing you to add as much or as little as you would like, but honestly it completely transforms the dish, the flavour was much more intense and I kept adding small amounts of Paprika mixing it through the goulash!
The best non-traditional dinner I enjoyed would have had to be at Borkonyha Wine Kitchen, this was enjoyed on my business trip where my meal was paid for, and when you’re not paying for it, you make sure you order yourself a delicious 3 course meal and wine to match. The staff was very attentive and they will recommend food to you based on the season. I would definitely suggest asking them for their advice! My starter which just doesn’t sound like it should work, was delicious, it was the red tuna with soured strawberry. I’m a sucker for a good steak so I couldn’t resist ordering the Angus beef tenderloin with young squash and tarragon flavoured mustard, it was pretty good but I did have a bit of food envy when a colleague’s duck breast with roasted pepper and chervil flavoured celleriac was served, but I don’t think you can really go wrong here.
A few doors down from Jerney Italian Bistro, I ate lunch at Duna Corso. The prices were a bit higher than the surrounding restaurants, however, the menu offered a good range to choose from. I ordered a whole fish, it was okay but nothing special. The service was also quite slow and I ended up trying to get the waiters attention on several occasions. I would be inclined to put this in the where not to eat category.
If you’re after a quick lunch or snack, I didn’t find anything that stood our more than the others, the food was all quite similar and I generally walked into the places that had a few more people than the others, or seemed to have a good atmosphere.
In terms of night life, there are so many options and again the city wakes up around 10 pm to head out, I stayed out a couple of times to see what the fuss is all about and Szimpla Kert mentioned on the blog and possibly Instant would be the only two that stood out. Instant is a younger scene and I almost felt a bit old (at 31), however we couldn’t resist as it is the biggest ruin pub in Budapest. The drinks are cheap and the crowd was certainly there, however, I did enjoy Szimpla Kert more as it was less of a club and more of a place to lounge around.
Getting to and from the airport
We have taken both taxies and public transport between the city and the airport. The simple recommendation is to take the taxi!
The cost of taxies aren’t ridiculous, from memory it was around €16 which if you split it between 2 (or more) is €8 each. The public transport, on the other hand, is a bit cheaper, but not by much and to be honest, it was hot (no airconditioning), uncomfortable and a bit of a pain to get to depending on the location of your hotel.
Do you have travel insurance?
Before travelling, make sure you get a travel insurance policy – you never know when you might need it! Click here for information on travel insurance, what company we recommend and a link to get an instant quote.
Alternative accommodation
If you’re looking for alternative accommodation to either save some money or share with friends or family, click here for information on Air B&B ($50 discount on your first booking), hotel price comparison websites etc.
“Travel makes one modest. You see what a tiny place you occupy in the world.” – Gustave Flaubert
Click here for a complete list of where I’ve been…
If you’re a traveller who struggles to unplug, this one is for you!
Using your mobile phone abroad
No doubt you’re well aware of the potential costs associated with using your mobile when abroad, it seems to be one of those topics which creep back into the news every couple of months!
Living and working abroad certainly has its advantages compared to Australia, in my opinion, the data packages (in the UK) for travelling abroad is much more palatable. There are a number of potential reasons for this, a high number of business travellers, the smaller regions with the adjacent borders (when in Geneva my phone consistently switched between the Swiss and French networks) and most likely, more competition, there are many more network providers all fighting for a larger share of the market.
Let’s be honest, you’ve all been somewhere and have gotten absolutely lost and not even a map will help you find where you need to go… So, these days you can easily turn to Google Maps to help direct you to where you have to go…. Like we did when we got lost hiking in Cinque Terre!
Or, you take that awesome selfie on your mobile and can’t possibly wait until you’re on Wi-Fi to upload it to Instagram or Facebook (you’ve all been there…)
To avoid declaring bankruptcy to get out of that phone bill follow these tips!
- Turn off data roaming (allowing calls to be received)
This is the first thing we do before we even take off from our home country! That way, you’ll be assured that when you turn on your phone when you arrive, it won’t automatically start synchronising apps and downloading emails in the background. This option still allows you to use your camera, offline maps and guides (see below) using GPS without even costing a penny of your precious data! - Offline maps (essential in my opinion)
When you’ve decided where you’re going to holiday, take a look at the app store for your destination, make sure you download some free offline maps and city guides. I generally find MobilyTrip one of the best free offline apps and very helpful when I’m not on a paid tour. The app not only provides you with a very helpful offline map but also highlighting the points of interest at your destination together with a couple of photos and a short description. You can also use Google Maps Offline as well. Click here to read all about how to do that! - Wi-Fi (C’mon there are many hotels, restaurants and cafe’s offering this for free)
Most of you will already be doing this, but hotels, restaurants and cafe’s these days generally all have Wi-Fi available, free of charge. You can stop in, take a break, have a drink and then reassess where you are, what’s around you and what you’re doing next! There have only been a few destinations (such as hiking in Norway!) where we simply couldn’t resist using our data to upload a few shots of our amazing trip. - Prepaid roaming (data packages for abroad)
If you do select this option, many of the prepaid plans come with a few Ts and Cs. Be mindful of any daily data limits, selecting either the unlimited option, or plans which give ample warning, or simply deactivates your usage when you have reached the cap.
- Buy a local SIM card (great for longer holidays in one or two other countries)
If you’re going abroad for a while, it may be beneficial for you to buy a local SIM card which you can use on your phone while you’re away. This will limit any exorbitant call roaming charges! - Remove your SIM card (this is the last resort in my opinion)
Honestly, if you have turned off your data roaming, and remain conscious not to make or receive phone calls unless you’re in exceptional circumstances then this really should only be for those who still remain unsure.Unplugging for the rest of the world is fantastic, but at the same time you always have the option of leaving your phone in the hotel room or simply keeping it turned off until you need to use it. However, one way or another with the SIM card removed, you’re guaranteed to avoid any unexpected charges so still a valid tip!
Found this helpful? Click here for even more of thewelltravelledman’s travel tips!
Do you have travel insurance?
Before travelling, make sure you get a travel insurance policy – you never know when you might need it! Click here for information on travel insurance, what company we recommend and a link to get an instant quote.
Alternative accommodation
If you’re looking for alternative accommodation to either save some money or share with friends or family, click here for information on Air B&B ($50 discount on your first booking), hotel price comparison websites etc.
Sex, Drugs and
Rock ‘n’ RollBicycles!!
God created the world but the Dutch created the Amsterdam. Why, you may ask? Well, this is because a large percentage of the Netherlands is either built below or near sea level, Amsterdam was built on reclaimed land. In fact, all the houses, buildings and bridges are carefully designed and built on wooden poles that go at least 10m below the wetland and clay surface to reach solid ground for support. Interesting isn’t it?
This is why, when you look down the street, many of the buildings are lop sided, caused by the poles shifting slightly over time, moving the foundation! As to why the houses lean forward, I will get to that later..!
We have visited this quaint, picturesque city twice, first in April 2010 as part of a tour group, and more recently in July 2015 doing it independently. This post will focus on our most recent trip. We planned and booked this trip some 9 months ago when we noticed some cheap summer flights on one of our spare weekends, so we booked the flights immediately!
What to see:
Red Light District
This is probably the first thing that comes to everyone’s mind when they think of Amsterdam. After all, it is what makes this city famous. The red light district is located in De Wallen, south of Amsterdam Centraal Station, you can either walk or take the tram to Dam Square and walk from there, probably around 5 minutes (east side of the city). If you go at night, you can’t miss it – just follow the crowds and you will soon find yourself in an alley filled with red (and the occasional blue) lights. If I’m honest, it is like walking into a butcher looking to pick the perfect piece of meat!
The whole concept is quite odd, and whilst you simply cannot help it, it feels wrong walking through the alleys, the woman forever tapping on the windows to grab you attention, seeing the odd customer as they enter (or leave) in a less than discreet way. We must have walked past a couple hundred windows, honestly, there is something on offer for anyone, no matter what you may be interested in.
…considering prices start at €50 for an average of 15 minutes, working in 8 hour shifts, they certainly have the potential to make a good living.
The profession has been in Amsterdam since the 14th century and whilst some do frown upon it and others make note of the trafficking and woman working against their will, it certainly doesn’t look like a struggling industry and I doubt we’ll see the red lights disappearing from the streets of Amsterdam. We were once told, the girls in this profession (in Amsterdam) were respected and that it is considered a good job, well-paying and secure with a protection at hand.
In a way, if women wish to be in that profession, it is probably the place be, there is a large customer base with plenty of foot traffic, the women decide on whom they’ll offer their services to, there is plenty of protection to keep them safe, and because it is regulated, the girls have health insurance, ensuring they are fit and healthy to continue working, reducing the risks associated with the profession.
The red light district may seem dodgy, but in general, the area is safe to walk through, the crowds of people and the level of protection around, both the ‘pimps’ as well as police officers roaming the alleys certainly give you a great deal of comfort. We were fortunate enough not to have experienced this, however, I would certainly recommend zipping up your bags and watching out for pickpockets, you are often pressing past people, especially in some of the narrow alleys!
The Old Town by foot
We jumped on a Sandemans Free Walking Tour. We’ve done a lot of these throughout Europe and can highly recommend them. The tours are absolutely free, you can pre-book for around €3 to guarantee you a spot on the tour (not a bad idea if you’re going in summer!!) and if you decide to book a paid tour, you get that €3 discounted off the price. The tour covers the main sights of Amsterdam and in my opinion, definitely worth doing. At the end of the tour, you tip the guide what you can afford based on what you think the tour was worth to you! This way, the guides have to work for their pay, making it an enjoyable tour! Check out our Trip Advisor Review.
Amsterdam outskirts, by bicycle
During the lunch break on the free walking tour, we decided to book the bicycle tour for the following day. We booked it as a joint ticket which included a canal cruise. The cost was €30.10 per person, the ticket is valid for any day, anytime so if the weather turns, you can jump on the next tour … We were incredibly lucky, after a day of intense storms, the weather for the bicycle tour was perfect and we were the only two people on the tour!
The bikes included in the tour are from MacBike, stored inside away from the elements and well looked after (and super comfy). The tour is advertised as being around 2 hours, however our guide Silvia was great, the entire experience was very relaxed and ended up lasting for around 3 hours, we stopped at many sites on the outskirts of the city, away from the sites covered by the walking tour and had plenty of opportunities to learn more and take some photos!!
The best part, in my opinion, was the ride and stop in Vondelpark. The park was filled with people exercising, attending boot camp or dogs playing around. It was so relaxing and something that you wouldn’t necessarily think of when going to Amsterdam.
Canal Tour
As part of the bicycle tour, we booked the canal tour. This will only have a brief mention as after we completed both the walking and bicycle tour, I wouldn’t necessarily recommend doing the canal tour, you do have a different perspective and it is quite relaxing, however you generally pass along similar sights and the pre-recorded audio guide is less informative than having a discussion with a tour guide in person! The canal tour lasts an hour and the ticket was valid on a few canal cruise companies (not run by Sandemans) but I would save your money and spend it on something else!
Ice Bar
We booked some tickets to go to the Ice Bar. We paid €15.50 per person from a ticket office (more expensive online). I thought the cost was just for the entrance!! But, that included the entry into the Ice Bar, one cocktail while you’re waiting to go through and then two more vodka drinks when you got inside the Ice Bar. You need to be there 20 minutes prior to your session start time, and you can have up to 30 minutes in the Ice Bar. It is -9.5 degrees so try to remember to wear some closed in shoes!! The drinks inside are served in an ice cup so that’s pretty cool! If you’ve got an evening free, it might be worth checking it out! Check out our Trip Advisor Review.
Volendam
In 2010, as part of our tour group, we went on a day trip to Volendam which is located in North Holland. While we were there, we visited a cheese factory and a clog factory as well as an old working windmill. It was interesting to see how they make the clogs and the hard work that goes into them. We stopped in at a traditional Dutch restaurant for lunch and the women in the town (particularly the restaurants) wore traditional Dutch clothing. It made us feel like we were actually in a different country. The most fascinating part of this area is that it is below sea level! If you have a spare day while you’re in Amsterdam, it might be worth picking up a day tour to Volendam to experience something a little different and perhaps more traditional.
Where to (and not to) eat:
Our first night, we arrived late, dropped our bags and by the time we got back to the city centre, it was too late for a meal and most of the kitchens at the restaurants and bars were shut, so we decided on some of their famous chips (frites) from an extremely popular place called Manneken Pis, advertised to have won the best fries in the Netherlands with over 20 sauces to choose from! Given the line up I thought to ask for a recommendation and were told we couldn’t go wrong with the local style mayonnaise, and let me tell you, these guys do not hold back on the sauce, the chips were covered in mayonnaise! I cannot say that these were the best chips I have ever had, but if you’re looking for a casual bite, it is absolutely something you should have when you’re in the area!
Cafe Proust: We had lunch the following day at Cafe Proust, stumbling across it after our walking tour. The weather turned and it was pouring with rain, it felt like cyclonic winds and we just needed to get under cover. The café is fairly small, which is what I really enjoy so was quite pleased when we walked in. I ordered my usual double espresso macchiato and it was honestly the best I came across, we also ordered freshly squeezed orange juice, a smoked salmon sandwich on fresh farmers bread and a beef burger with a side of chips. The storm continued so rather than venturing outside I talked to the waiter and she recommended I sample the locally brewed Zatte ‘tripel’ beer – all delicious and the service fantastic.
It is slightly out of the city centre, but if you’re around that area, I would recommend stopping in there! Check out our Trip Advisor Review.
Cinema Club Cafe: We had dinner at Cinema Club Cafe, it looked busy so we thought it must be okay? Wrong!! The staff were friendly and helpful, but unfortunately, that’s where it stops. The food, admittedly quite cheap, wasn’t very good and completely lacked in flavour. But in saying that, I don’t think they specialise on food, the menu is quite limited so if you head here, it might just be for a drink or two …
Where to stay
We stayed at the Mercure Hotel Amsterdam Centre Canal District. It is about a 30-minute walk from Central Station, however, you can take trams 16 or 24 from Centraal Station and get off at either Keizersgracht or Wetering-circuit, both of which are around a 5 – 6-minute walk to the hotel. We booked a privilege room, which was lovely and spacious, came with a lovely welcome gift, chocolate, a Nespresso machine as well as a free mini bar which was a nice bonus. The hotel is in the canal district, away from the hustle and bustle, but there are still quite a few nice pubs and restaurants close by. The only negative would be the breakfast. The cost is €19.50 per person per day, not very exciting and quite limited to the breakfasts we’ve had at other Accor hotels.
Coffee Shops / Cafes
These two should not be mistaken for the same thing! In fact, they are two very different things. A cafe is a regular place to get a coffee and some food. A coffee shop, on the other hand, is a place where you can go and legally buy and smoke marijuana. You often get given a menu with the different things on offer, such as brownies, cookies etc. When you’re walking through Amsterdam, it is pretty obvious where the coffee shops are, mainly by the smell. Particularly in the evening, you can walk up and down the streets and only smell marijuana. There are strict rules about where you can and can’t smoke a joint, so if this is something you’re wanting to do, make sure you do a bit of research on what is allowed!
Getting to and from Schiphol airport
Getting to and from the airport and Centraal Station is very easy. You can either take the express train, which is 13 minutes, or a train which had 3 stops and takes less than 20 minutes. It cost us €10.20 for two people one way. It might be worth pricing a taxi, as we heard it only costs around €15 for a taxi …. might be easier than taking the train and then walking to your hotel, but then it depends on the time of day and how much traffic may be around!
Why do the buildings lean forward?
Now, a quick explanation of why the buildings in Amsterdam lean forward? Houses back in the day were taxed on how wide they were, hence the narrow house fronts. It didn’t necessarily matter how deep or high they were, just the width. Because of this, the internal stairs are extremely narrow and not easy to get furniture or spices (as it were back in the day) up stairs. Therefore, each house has a hook on the outside, which they used as a pulley system. This still doesn’t explain why the houses lean forwards, does it? Well, the reason is, if the houses were built straight up, when they are pulling the goods up the outside of the house, the windows would obviously get broken. Glass was very expensive back in the day.. so the houses were built leaning slightly forward meaning the glass didn’t get broken on the way up! Makes Perfect Sense!
Do you have travel insurance?
Before travelling, make sure you get a travel insurance policy – you never know when you might need it! Click here for information on travel insurance, what company we recommend and a link to get an instant quote.
Alternative accommodation
If you’re looking for alternative accommodation to either save some money or share with friends or family, click here for information on Air B&B ($50 discount on your first booking), hotel price comparison websites etc.
Life is like riding a bicycle: you don’t fall off unless you stop pedalling – Claude Pepper
Click here for a complete list of where I’ve been…
People often ask us …
How on earth do you manage to go on so many holidays ….
and
How can you be so organised and know what you’re doing a year in advance ….
Well, the simple truth is, with the right mindset and some helpful tools, it doesn’t take long to identify when, what and how you are going to make all those dreams become a reality!
Step one: a yearly wall planner, assorted dots stickers, a dry marker and an empty wall where it is in your face and visible!
- The yearly planner is a must. We have a large laminated A1 size yearly with plenty of space. The laminate is extremely handy as you’ll have the option of using the dry marker to block out holidays and if your plans change, wipe it off and re-plot the date of your adventure!
- The assorted dots I consider to be very useful, we used it to quickly identify birthdays, dinners or events (not holidays). These work well as they are specifically on one day and do not clutter the yearly planner with a great deal of writing
- Now look at all that ‘white space’ and make the most of it!
Step two: a bucket list!
- Inspiration – I honestly found Instagram so helpful, all you have to do is follow a few of the travel profiles, log on and see some spectacular photos, and if those don’t inspire you then you probably wouldn’t be reading this! Now obviously you should make sure you follow thewelltravelledman as well!
- The list – write it down, one thing being inspired and then thinking about it two weeks later only to forget where it was or who posted the inspiring photo!
- You’ll need to have a think about how long you think you need, is it a quick weekend getaway, a week or a month?
- Don’t live by the list, be spontaneous, the unplanned trips can sometimes be the best trips! The number of times we had a look at flights, found a great deal and booked an impromptu trip somewhere (like Paris for the third time!) is absolutely worth it. We ended up getting return EuroStar tickets for £50 each so it’s absolutely worth having a little flexibility!
Step three: Set a budget, book the flights, tours and accommodation
- The budget, the boring bit, somewhat important … but honestly flight prices change frequently so even if something appears out of reach, have a look and plan in advance if you are able and no doubt you’ll find those affordable flights
The search
- We predominantly use following websites when planning our trips.
- Google Flights: choose some dates, your departure city and click on that map to easily see the cost of flights from a range of providers to destinations all over the world on one amazing map!
- SkyScanner: always good to do a check on another site, just in case!)
- TripAdvisor: once you know you have the budget, the flights are reasonable and it’s all systems go… this is absolutely the next step, have a quick glance at hotels, day trips and walking tours!
- AccorHotels: I honestly believe in loyalty, nothing like turning up at a branded hotel you know and trust, provided with welcome drinks and a room upgrade to get your adventure started!
- Hotelscombined: similar to Google Flights and Skyscanner, but for hotels!
Step four: Pack your bags! Click here for your printable carry on check list.
- Pack light, pack smart! No doubt you’ve all heard about …
stuffing those socks inside your shoes, rolling and squeezing casual clothing and layering business wear..!
- Nothing worse than dragging around a heavy bag full of unnecessary things, do you really need 15 jocks for a 4-night getaway?!
Those walks between the train station and the hotel can literally be a drag with heavy luggage and that’s not how you want to start your trip!
- Don’t assume the worst, under no circumstances will you need a coat when travelling through Greece in July or August!
Step five: Explore the world!
- That’s it really!
He who would travel happily must travel light – Antoine de Saint-Exupéry
Growing up we spent most of our holidays with our family either on the farm or at the beach, lazing in the sunshine, swimming in the oceans …
skiing was never an option!
Having signed my relocation contract (London!), we were lucky enough to not really have anything to worry about … at all … my employer was locked in, removalists confirmed and relocation agent for a rental property booked.
We had nothing to do other than thinking about the holidays, what, where, how … and most importantly … first! Now our trip to St Anton ended up being our second holiday (we couldn’t resist booking a quick weekend to Paris), but it was certainly our first one we planned, booked and paid for!
Planning a ski trip …
It was the most exciting and nerve racking time, we didn’t know where to go, what to do or what to expect, or if we would be any good at skiing! It is a holiday you would either love or hate, obviously correlated to your ability to pick up the basics and build some confidence.
That being said, we started looking at accommodation, for those of you who may have done the same, our experience is that there is a considerable gap in the quality of accommodation. These were either affordable, back to the future (styled in the 50s) hotels/chalets, or lavish chalets for the affluent folk completely out of our price range. One thing was certain, we needed a place to come home to after a long day of skiing to relax, or even worse, spend the day at if we ended up hating the snow.
From the moment we stumbled across the Mooser hotel, nothing else compared. It was an incredible, amazing restaurant with even better views. The resort and I call it a resort because of the amenities available to us was out of this world! It was by far the most amazing place we’ve stayed.
Let’s start from the beginning…
We got picked up from the station in a lovely Audi Q7, driven up the mountain to where the hotel was located, we then drove into what appeared to be a single car garage. The automatic door closed, classical music started playing and the enclosed box we were in started to move …
it was a car lift leading to the expansive underground car park…
From the moment we arrived, the staff were so welcoming and informative, they showed us to our room and around the premises (this was needed to explain how everything worked!). We were in heaven, constantly surprised with a few nice touches (which made all the difference), the free of charge mini bar, the glass jars filled with shortbread on the bedside tables, the spa, equipped with infra-red sauna, dry-heat sauna, rock sauna, steam room and an outdoor infinity-edge pool was incredible!
Then, you get to the ski locker room, you’re allocated a locker which has been fitted with heated boot racks!! Yes, that’s right – heated boot racks!! This means, when you get down in the morning, your slip into nice toasty warm ski boots – perfect!
The first day, we were picked up in a free transfer to the resort to collect our boots and skis from the hire company before meeting at the ski school for our very first group lesson. The word to describe our first lesson would be – WOW. Our instructor was a young British girl, around 20 years old. The first half of the lesson, we spent learning how to walk up a piste sideways, then plough (or pizza) down to the bottom, slowing down and eventually stopping. We did this over … and over … and over again.
It was basically doing side lunges up the hill and permanent squats coming down again the hill…
Now, I’m not one to brag (or maybe I am), but we picked up the basics quite quickly compared to the rest of the group and thankfully ‘graduated’ mid lesson and were moved to the group at the next level. This was much better, no more side lunges to go up the piste, instead, you casually grab onto a button lift, which at a very relaxing pace drags you up! Here we are, standing at the top of our very first blue piste… petrified.
Nevertheless, what goes up must come down, so with a bit of confidence from our (now male mid-20s) instructor, we put the last hour of learnings into action and proceeded to plough, intending on following the instructions tracks … and then
completely out of control, tearing down, exhilarating, free!
… I’m not sure if it’s the unnaturally high levels of oxygen in the mountains, the adrenaline or a death wish but it felt amazing, the pace you pick up in such a short amount of time is simply astonishing. Now I should mention that whilst this is a blue run, it’s in St Anton, which we’ve come to realise not the place for beginners, the blue runs, are ‘blue runs’ and effectively comparable intermediate runs in most other resorts, so whilst we picked an amazing hotel, we clearly failed on the beginner ski resort research.
At the end of the lesson, we continued to ski putting what we learnt into practice without an instructor before calling it a day. We headed back to the Mooser hotel, spoilt for choice in the Spa facilities, we literally did not know what to pick first, I believe we spent a total of 10-15 minutes in each one of them, however, I’m convinced the infra-red sauna is what saved our quads and glutes after the high-intensity combination lunge, squat workout!
At this point, I should mention that the Mooser hotel, is a ski in ski out hotel, which means, without a transfer, to get down the village you need to be able to ski down. Given our success on the first day and confidence, we built we honestly thought nothing of it…
Let’s give it a go… famous last words!
So, out we go on to the side of the piste, it felt like rush hour, we waited patiently for a break in the traffic before setting off, zig zagging to the other side and back again to ‘show’ Jenna the way, pausing for Jenna to make her way over to me, except, she decided to stop, literally in the middle of the piste with snowboarders and skiers whistling past her, immobilised and unable to turn around!! To cut a long story short, we ended up removing our skis, walking half way down a relatively steep piste (which I find much harder than actually skiing), clipping them on and skiing the last third of the way for our second, much-needed lesson to rebuild some confidence.
The remainder of our time, including Christmas day (which was quite festive and a lot of fellow skiers dressing up and skiing around as Santa or elves for the occasion), we continued without lessons and consistently improved our technique.
No trip to St Anton is complete without heading up to Valluga.
We decided to take the gondola up to check out the view we heard so much about. To get there, you need to take the Galzigbahn, followed by the Vallugabahn. This will take you to the restaurant which is worth the views. If it’s not too windy and weather permitting, you absolutely have to take another journey on the Vallugabahn II, this takes you all the way to the viewing platform for some seriously amazing panoramic views over the valley unbeaten anywhere else in St Anton!
On the highest point, there the gondola is around 190m above the valley … for those who petrified of heights (like Jenna!) it’s better staring out into the distance at the beautiful peaks rather than looking down. Luckily we shared the gondola with a couple of people and their dog, so Jenna spent most of the time crouching down (where you can’t see out) and patting the dog to distract her from how high we were!
On our last day at the Mooser hotel, Boxing Day, heavy snow was predicted, something Jenna had never seen before! We woke up, and nothing… but we waited and waited and by around 9.30am it was snowing, it was incredible!!
The snow was that heavy that within the hour the snow was that thick that we decided to make a snowman and have a bit of fun on the hotel’s patio overlooking the Mühltobel Gorge.
We eventually made it down to the station to head back to Zurich for our flight, only to realise that with the excitement of the snow, we incorrectly read the ticket and our train had left several hours earlier!!! Lucky for us, the lovely staff at the station were still in the Christmas spirit and amended our ticket free of charge, allowing us to catch the next train which got us to Zurich with literally a minute to spare before having to catch the connecting train to the airport – we made it with only a few seconds to check our bags!! Talk about luck!
Tips And Reviews
Where to stay:
Obviously, we recommend the Mooser hotel, but it will depend on your budget. It is a luxury hotel, but you do get what you pay for! Nothing beats coming back to your hotel, having somewhere nice to relax, unwind and a comfortable bed! The best part about the hotel is that it is owned and adjoined to the Mooserwirt (below). Guests of the hotel have their own private entrance so you can avoid the crowds at the front!
Where to hire your ski gear:
We hired our ski gear through Alber Sport. I was lucky to get the current’s season and essentially brand new boots, where Jenna’s had been used for a few seasons, the padding for the shins a bit thin, but overall still in good condition. The staff were friendly and provided a quick chat through the basics, like, how to put the boots on properly!! They provided the free transfer from the hotel in the morning and even dropped our shoes off at the hotel to avoid the inconvenience of having to head back at the end of the day to go pick them up, meaning we could head straight back to the hotel!
Where to eat:
Given how important Christmas Eve is to Europeans, we thought it would be best to make a reservation for dinner. We found The Sport Hotel online, it was a steakhouse, which suited us. We made a reservation via email, and the hotel was quick to respond and confirm our reservation. The staff were friendly and the food was delicious. I would recommend stopping in for a bite to eat if you can!
We had our Christmas Dinner at the Mooser Hotel. The chef is incredible, the restaurant has views over the ski fields and the food was delicious. You should pre-book if you want to eat there though!!
If you’re after a more casual dining experience, you can’t go past Mooserwirt. Not only is it the biggest Apres-ski in St Anton, their food is incredible… well when I say their food, we only ate the burger and chicken wings, lots and lots of chicken wings. They are by far the best chicken wings we’ve ever eaten (and I’ve eaten a few!). We went late one night after the kitchen had shut, but the lovely bar tender offered to cook us wings and chips (the only thing he knew how to make) which were perfect for us. The waiter saw me trying to take a photo of my beer glass and he brought over a brand new clean glass and told me I could keep it… Check out our Trip Advisor Review!
this is where I first started collecting beer glasses!
Getting to St Anton
St Anton is very well connected. We caught the train from Zurich into St Anton – direct high-speed train and it was convenient, on time and comfortable. Tickets can be purchased through SBB online to reserve a seat. The trains can get very busy and they do check your tickets!!
Do you have travel insurance?
Before travelling, make sure you get a travel insurance policy – you never know when you might need it! Click here for information on travel insurance, what company we recommend and a link to get an instant quote.
Alternative accommodation
If you’re looking for alternative accommodation to either save some money or share with friends or family, click here for information on Air B&B ($50 discount on your first booking), hotel price comparison websites etc.
Skiing is a dance, and the mountain always leads. ~Author Unknown
Completing two contrasting sunrise hikes featured in Preikestolen (Pulpit Rock) Sunrise Hike in less than 7 minutes or watch the under 3 minute version – you choose!
- Hike 1 – what an experience … rain started pouring down, the weather frequently changed as we ascended, it was as if we were in a series of weather systems … the rain turned to sleet, the sleet became larger and felt like hail before we were walking through light snow.
- Hike 2 – absolutely stunning, perfect weather conditions and one of the most spectacular experiences!
… worth watching to the end for the second hike!
Sitting in Stavanger airport, I simply cannot stop thinking about the last two days and how I could possibly justify in words how magical the last two days have been …
Our Preikestolen story
Stavanger is one of those places I didn’t know existed, and cannot imagine many people have it high on their travel list… but they should! Instagram can truly inspire individuals to travel the world, explore and experience new places. Having stumbled across Pulpit Rock myself, I immediately added it to the ‘bucket list’. The challenge, however, was to somehow convince my wife (Jenna, who is scared of heights!) to get on that aircraft, hike up a mountain in the middle of the night to end with a sheer drop of 604 meters! This was certainly no easy task, the usual ‘dream holiday’ for Jenna has always been finding the perfect spot on a tropical beach with the warmth of the sun, the sound of the waves crashing, and ultimately falling asleep and waking up wondering where the day has gone…
After pondering for a while, my mission started, it was mid-March 2015 and the plan was devised after a great deal of research where I managed to find… relatively safe looking YouTube videos of the hike demonstrating it was quite plausible with easy walking, some spectacular views along the way as well as plenty of space at the end to stay as far away from the ledge as you may want. Now ultimately, I should have known how little Jenna actually trusted me, she quickly started her own research and found videos demonstrating certain death… but then again, she also clearly underestimated my powers of persuasion… so here we are (for the second time!).
Preikestolen Sunrise Hike #1
It was April 2015, the beginning of the season and we were one of the first sunrise hikes of the year, the path only recently being opened after a snowy winter. We arrived in Stavanger on a Friday night with the hike booked for the Sunday morning. It was freezing, the weather forecast uncertain and we had no idea what to expect.
The start of the hike
It all started on Sunday, 26 April 2015, at 1 am. Johannes, our guide, picked us up from the Stavanger Tourist Information centre in town, and we drove for around 5 minutes to get to the ferry port. The ferry journey is around 35 minutes and from the other side, it is about a 20-minute drive to the Preikestolen mountain lodge where the hike begins. Being novice hikers, with no hiking appropriate clothing, we hired hiking boots, waterproof pants and jackets, these were brand new and a great idea given the temperature fluctuated around freezing point and a chance of rain. In addition to this, we were provided with hiking poles, headlamps as well as a beanie to keep warm. We started our hike at around 2.30am with the first of three steep inclines. It was the darkest of nights, the thick clouds blocking out the moonlight and without the headlamps, you couldn’t see each other. In April, the sun was due to rise at 5:52 am which provided us with ample time, and relaxed pace to reach this spot overlooking Preikestolen, where the views looking over the fjord towards the sunrise cannot be beaten.
As luck would have it, a few minutes into the hike before the rain started pouring down, the weather frequently changed as we ascended, it was as if we were in a series of weather systems … the rain turned to sleet, the sleet became larger and felt like hail before we were walking through light snow. Now many of you may appreciate the fact that hiking (or walking) in some snow is much more pleasant than being battered with sleet or hail! It was an incredible experience hiking in these conditions as it is probably safe to say we’re unlikely to ever experience such volatility in such a short period of time.
The top of Preikestolen
When we reached the top, the snowfall cleared and it felt promising, the weather seemed to have calmed down and we had another 30 minutes to wait before the sun was due to rise. Johannes, being a fantastic guide, provided us with a waterproof sheet to sit on, some hot drinks, pulled out his portable camp stove, some premixed batter and started to whip up some pancakes!!
Having enjoyed the time to relax, eat and drink, the sad realisation was in front of us … absolutely nothing, the fog was so thick you couldn’t see a thing … we sat there waiting, anxious, hoping that it would clear, but nothing. The sunrise was long gone so we packed our backpacks to make our way down a few narrow ledges to step foot on Pulpit rock, still hoping for the fog to clear and provide us with some of the views over the fjord. We spent around 10 minutes there taking a few photos with us standing close to the edge, and then it happened, around 2 seconds of absolutely stunning glimpses of the fjord, not quite long enough to actually take a photo of … but just enough for the GoPro to be pointed in the right direction for some evidence of us standing on Preikestolen with this spectacular sight …
From the moment we had the glimpse over the fjord, we couldn’t stop talking about how surreal it would be standing in that exact spot, watching the sunrise over the fjord on a clear day. Every step we took back towards the lodge, we kept saying, over and over … ‘imagine if …’
The descent provided us with ample amounts of rain and snow and clearly wanted to rub it in our faces, this time, slightly less enjoyable given the lack of sleep and no prospect of reaching Preikestolen, it was over. When we reached the lodge, we enjoyed a well deserved, second breakfast (after those delicious pancakes), which was consisted of a decent spread of freshly baked bread, jam, fruit and as well as some rather odd caramelised, brown Scandinavian whey cheese which I simply had to try … twice … to reconfirm that I wasn’t all that sure about it…
We got back to Stavanger town by around 9.30am, just in time for a third breakfast of the day at the Radisson Blu Atlantic hotel (after all, we already paid for it!), enjoyed a couple hours of sleep before our complimentary late check-out and finally our journey back to the airport.
I have to say, when I woke up, it felt like I had the most amazing dream, the fact that earlier that day we started a hike, in the middle of the night, and in those conditions, is an unforgettable yet surreal experience … something I will forever be grateful.
The bit in-between
What can I say, other than after our weekend in Stavanger, we had quite a full travel itinerary…
We spent 9 days in Turkey, 3 days in Cinque Terre, a weekend in Bergen, had a punt at the Royal Ascot in London, as well as a 9-day cruise through the Baltic Capitals, (which will all have their separate blogs!) … It was after a short hike (Stoltzekleiven), mid-June in another Norwegian city called Bergen when we decided we couldn’t wait any longer, turned on our data roaming, checked flights and emailed Johannes to confirm availability to guide us up for another sunrise hike!
Instagram page for thewelltravelledwoman
Preikestolen Sunrise Hike #2
Having just returned from our Baltic cruise, we attempted a full week of work, arriving in Stavanger Friday, 10 July 2015.
This time, the hike was on a Saturday morning, knowing it would be a futile attempt at sleep, we didn’t worry about accommodation. Instead, we arrived around 9:30 pm after a day at work, wandered around the port, through the cobbled streets in town and found a place to eat. Dinner that evening was easy, we decided it had to either be a burger or a pizza, it didn’t bother us either way, we knew we were about to burn those calories!
The forecasts was that the sun would rise at 4:42am, light cloud and a light breeze …
There was no need for the waterproof pants and jacket, we put on the boots, headlamps and grabbed the hiking poles. It was around 5 degrees, what a difference 5 degrees can make! It was 2.30am, just like the first hike, but with the earlier sunrise, we had 1hr10m less to reach Preikestolen – we set off, the pace was much quicker, we knew we needed to keep a steady pace, briefly stopping in a few spots to talk about the views in the distance, or taking a quick photo of the scenery. It was never completely dark – there was always a blue tinge in the sky, and it was beautiful.
It was about an hour into the hike – the edges of the clouds lit up with magical tinges of bright orange and red shades …
we knew this time would be perfect …
Johannes, knowing we have been here before, treated us to a different approach to an even higher vantage point overlooking Preikestolen, we continued the climb for around 10 minutes and arrived with around 20 minutes to spare. Again, we enjoyed some freshly made pancakes, a warm drink and simply soaked up the views in front of us. With around 5 minutes to spare, Johannes quickly got up and grabbed his camera, having done the same the two of us quickly mimicked the movements of a couple of mountain goats, clambering down and around a couple of ledges to find the perfect vantage point – to be fair, it doesn’t matter where you stood, it was spectacular – but we knew, the spot we were standing on … was it!
I can’t describe in words how beautiful this was to watch… It would have to be one of the most spectacular experiences of my life, to be able to sit on what feels like the top of the world, overlooking Preikestolen and the fjord, watching the beautiful colours emerge through the clouds, the crescent of the sun rising and the place transforming every second.
Once we watched the sunrise, we went down to stand on Pulpit Rock, or in my case, stick my head over the edge to see exactly how high we were! We spent around 25 minutes on Preikestolen itself, but it is somewhere I could have spent hours! We got some spectacular photos, Jenna even partially conquered her greatest fear and stood near the edge for some unforgettable photos.
Jenna conquering her fears
We then started our hike down which was again around 2 hours and we made it to the lodge for breakfast before heading back to the Scandic Stavanger Park hotel for a power nap and some leisure in town!
Here is a video in under 3 minutes for you to enjoy!
Stavanger old town
Stavanger town itself is quite picturesque with its pastel coloured buildings, the Old Town with the quaint little houses painted in white, and of course the Vikings’ Three Swords in Rock (Sverd I Fjell), but you won’t need more than a day to explore what it has to offer.
We used our time in town to wander the cobblestone streets and cycling (see below!), but for the most part enjoyed sitting in the local cafes, either talking about how great the sunrise hike is going to be, or reminiscing over the most amazing experience we just had, sorting through photos and watching the GoPro videos (whilst enjoying a local beer of course!).
The most important thing when traveling to Norway, is to remember that nothing is open on a Sunday…
… it’s against the law to have stores (other than small convenience stores, restaurants and museums open to the public. For the Norwegians, this day of rest is not necessarily all that relaxing, the majority of them spend the day outdoors hiking, canoeing or riding their bikes (even in the rain!)
Cycling around Stavanger
Most hotels have bikes you can use – free of charge… we found this ideal for the c. 5km easy ride along the cycling paths and stunning parks to the Sverd I Fjell (three swords in rock). Stavanger, for the most part, is relatively flat and the locals are very friendly and courteous when you do come to intersections or need to ask for directions.
Preikestolen Tips And Reviews
Tour Guide:
I knew the only way to convince my wife to do this hike, would be to arrange a guided tour, someone who knows the area and won’t take us anywhere that isn’t appropriate for our ability. It was the best decision we made. We booked with Outdoorlife Norway and the guide/owner Johannes is knowledgeable, very friendly and highly recommended. Check out the links and trip advisor reviews below for more information.
You can certainly do the hike on your own, but be warned, this is one of the main reasons for tourists visiting Stavanger, when Cruise ships are in port, be prepared for hundreds, if not thousands of tourists along the path and spoiling the serenity and views, in my opinion the sunrise hike would have to be the best way of experiencing this wonderful place.
Where to stay in Stavanger
We stayed at two different hotels whilst in Stavanger. We first stayed at the Radisson Blu, followed by Scandic Stavanger Park. Both were very good hotels, with a few differences. The breakfast at the Radisson Blu had more to offer, but the rooms at the Scandic were much nicer and newer. Check out the trip advisor reviews below.
Where to eat in Stavanger
We ate at a few places (see below!) but the highlight for us would be Døgnville burgers!
- Døgnville – Reviewed on Trip Advisor
- Hanekam – Reviewed on Trip Advisor
- Al-Forno Pizzeria og Restaurant – Reviewed on Trip Advisor
- B Sorensens Dampskibsexpedition – Reviewed on Trip Advisor
- Dolly Dimples – Reviewed on Trip Advisor
Do you have travel insurance?
Before travelling, make sure you get a travel insurance policy – you never know when you might need it! Click here for information on travel insurance, what company we recommend and a link to get an instant quote.
Alternative accommodation
If you’re looking for alternative accommodation to either save some money or share with friends or family, click here for information on Air B&B ($50 discount on your first booking), hotel price comparison websites etc.
“Travelling – it leaves you speechless, then turns you into a storyteller” – Ibn Battuta
Travelling is such a wonderful thing that we simply have not had a chance to take a break and write about our great experiences!
Over the last few of weeks, we couldn’t have asked for better weather as we visited the Baltic capitals through a combination of flights and a highly recommended Cruise – the Norwegian Star.
- Bergen
- Oslo
- Copenhagen
- Warnemünde
- Tallinn
- St Petersburg
- Helsinki
- Stockholm
To be honest, I am relatively confident that the blogging will be minimal over the next few months before we relocate back to Sydney, Australia. Looking at our yearly planner we actually only have 1 weekend left in the United Kingdom and the rest has already been planned before returning to Australia at the end of September!
The rest of this month will be taken up by Stavanger, Budapest and Amsterdam… now oddly enough, I have already been to each of these cities before but, plenty of reason to head back and explore!
The best way to keep up to date with some travel photos would be on …
Instagram – thewelltravelledman
… where I am able to take a quick snap on my phone and upload it to share with the world! Below is a sneak peak…
Bergen – views from one of our hikes!
Copenhagen – Nyhavn
St Petersburg – Church on spilled blood
Sweden – Bingo – Vasa – Helsinki – St Petersburg
Click here for a complete list of where I’ve been…
Not once, not twice but THREE times!!
This is a city we can’t seem to keep away from! Each time we visit Paris, we find a little bit more of the city to fall in love with that we didn’t discover the first time.
We first visited Paris in April 2010 and were blown away by the city, although it was a whirlwind visit, only focusing on the typical tourist attractions and the famous Moulin Rouge. The second time was in December 2013, which was a little more relaxed and just in time for the Christmas Markets, and the most recent time being June 2014 where we enjoyed Paris, in the summertime! We were able to enjoy Paris at our own pace with no pressure to see and do everything, instead we wandered through the back streets, in and out of the Latin Quarter, stopped in at local cafés and just relaxed!
What to see in Paris
Tips and Tricks!
Eiffel Tower: I would highly recommend you pre-purchase your tickets and include a skip the line option if possible! We were lucky enough the first time to be with a tour so jumped right into the lifts and up we went. Others must have waited in the line for hours and when you have limited time in the city, you don’t want to waste a single moment.
When it gets dark – the tower lights up with thousands of lights. It is the most amazing sight, magical even!! You can sit down on the grassed area, buy some beer or wine from the guys selling them and take a picnic!!
The Louvre: We went into the museum as part of our 2010 tour, mainly to see the Mona Lisa. All I can say is don’t expect too much – the painting itself is so small, and for some reason, we were expecting quite a big picture! The rest of the museum was fairly good, but if you’re stuck on time just visit the outside of the museum and get a photo!! The building itself is gorgeous!
The Arc de Triomphe: Well, the first thing that comes to mind is the traffic! How on earth do you know when to go and when to give way! You can stand and watch the traffic for hours and it will keep you entertained! Secondly, you can get to the top of the Arc de Triomphe and get spectacular views from the Champs-Élysées to the Basilica. Just be careful not to overpay for the pictures the guy sells you at the bottom!! You can get them cheaper from other tourist places throughout Paris!
Latin Quarter: What a fun, hip place to see! There are so many narrow walkways, cafés, restaurants – you can spend ages here just taking it all in. It is an area of Paris that is outside the normal touristy places, but absolutely well worth the visit if you have the time! We ate at one restaurant for two of our visits – it was as good the second time round as it was the first! A trip to Paris or the Latin Quarter is not complete until you’ve had Moules & Frittes! Absolutely delicious!!!!! If you get a chance, stop by Le Sainsev’.
Notre Dame: You can’t visit Paris without checking out Notre Dame! We haven’t actually gone in, but just to see the cathedral from the outside is great. It is fairly close to the Latin Quarter so you can do both of those in the same morning or afternoon!!
The Basilica of the Sacred Heart of Paris, commonly known as Sacré-Cœur Basilica: This for me is a must see when you’re in Paris! We only got around to it on our third trip and wished we had of gone up sooner. There is a bit of a walk to get up (or you can take the tram), but the view from the top is incredible! On a fine day, you can climb to the top of the church for even better views. Unfortunately, the day we went was overcast so didn’t worry about going up. There are lovely little restaurants in the village to grab a bite to eat if you have the time.
Where to stay
We stayed at two different locations on our three stays. Twice at the Eiffel Tower and one in Opera. Our first stay, which was part of a tour group was at the Hotel Mercure Paris Centre Tour Eiffel. The second time we stayed at the Hotel Pullman Tower Eiffel. Both hotels were close to the metro and you can see the Eiffel Tower from some of the rooms. Our negative with staying near the Eiffel Tower is that there is nothing else around that area!!!
We learnt after the second time and on our third time, we stayed in Opéra. The hotel we stayed at was Le Stendhal Place Vendôme Paris – MGallery Collection. The hotel itself was absolutely perfect and next to a lovely restaurant with fantastic food and staff!
We found the hotel was in a perfect spot for exploring the city. We walked pretty much everywhere we wanted to go.
Where to eat
We ate at Le Cap Bourbon a couple of times when we stayed at the M Gallery Hotel as this restaurant/bar was next door!! Not only was it convenient, our waitress Sarah made our visit enjoyable every time. The food was scrumptious as were the cocktails.
We stopped at many other restaurants, including a few along the Champs-Élysées, but nothing worth writing home about (aside from the restaurant mentioned in the Latin Quarter section).
If you are in Paris over the Christmas period, you must not leave without having a Nutella Crepe! Simply the best and in my opinion symbolises Christmas in Europe!!!
Do you have travel insurance?
Before travelling, make sure you get a travel insurance policy – you never know when you might need it! Click here for information on travel insurance, what company we recommend and a link to get an instant quote.
Alternative accommodation
If you’re looking for alternative accommodation to either save some money or share with friends or family, click here for information on Air B&B ($50 discount on your first booking), hotel price comparison websites etc.
Click here for a complete list of where I’ve been…
